How To Clean A Ruger 22 45 Mark Iii

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1. My Dad saw the TALE OF THE GUN today which featured a story on the Luger. In my state, I'll probably never see one much less be able to afford one. The Mark III would be as close as it gets and he's taken with the blue model because it resembles the German gun. He has trouble cleaning all his guns so I do it for him. How hard will this be and how long to learn to do it? Anyone from MA get an idea of the cost too?

2. They're not the easiest gun on the market to take apart/reassemble. Still, if you follow the instructions in the manual you should have no problems. If you do, post here and someone will get you straightened out.

3. The Ruger is pretty easy to strip and reassemble, following the instructions in the manual. Reassembly is easy, once you learn the little step of assuring that the hammer strut is properly positioned. It really helps to have someone show you how to do it. Just eeing it done once by someone who knows how makes it very simple.

   While the MKI-III generally look a little like Lugers, they are absolutely different in how they work, strip, etc. The similarities are much more apparent than real.

4. I'm sure the real deal works and cleans very differently from the imitators. I might set up an appointment with a guy at my range that has a Mark II. Can't be much more different...I hope.

5. Mark III's can be a little tricky. You must release the hammer to pull the mainspring assembly. Once that is out you have to pull the trigger and tilt the gun towards the heel, barrel up grip down and reset the hammer in it's firing position before you can remove the slide. You have to hold the slide in the process because once the hammer resets the slide will fall right out.

   When reassembling you must again have the hammer in it's set, ready to fire postion. Insert the slide and insert the mainspring assembly "pin" then tilt the gun back into the heel down barrel up position again and ensure that the "hammer strut" (a little hinged tab attached to the hammer) is dangling free and not hung up behind the cross pin that is present inside the assembly well. If it gets stuck back there (which it will) I use a non-marring tool like the pointy end of a modeling paintbrush to slightly raise the hammer (gun still being held in barrel up position) and free the strut. Then as you close the mainspring assembly into is space you must observe and be sure that the strut finds its way into the detent in the mainspring assembly. If you have done it right there will be a slight spring pressure just (1/8") before the assembly fully closes back into its place and the gun will cock and fire. If you can only half cock the gun and the slide jams or the assembly will not easily close and lock you have missed getting the strut into the mainspring assembly detent and you have to unlock the assembly, swing it out and try to get that strut where it's supposed to be. Once you get the hang of it it's no big deal but it can be a hair puller the first few times you try it.

   good luck!

6. 

   stinx Member

   Joined:

   Nov 2, 2003

   Messages:

   28

   there is a company that sells a part that is supposed to make cleaning and taking the Rugers apart much easier. For the life of me I can not remeber the name of the company

7. .
   Actually the design inspiration came from the Japanese Nambu pistol.

   Anywho, the gadget for disassembl/reassembly is a good investment.

10. If an aftermarket company can design an easy way to field strip/assemble the 22/45, Mark III, etc. I wonder why the Ruger designers couldn't figure it out. Probably would sell more of the product. Since many are turned away because it is intiminating to some customers.

11. 

    hnm201 Member

    Joined:

    Mar 14, 2003

    Messages:

    433

    I've never stripped my Ruger 22/45 and I don't think that if I had a Mark III I would strip it either. When I clean my Ruger .22 I squirt breakfree or mobil 1 on the bolt and in the bore and then run a snake through the bore and wipe of the exterior. And I keep the mags clean. No problems with Rem Thunderbolt ammo. Tens of thousands of rounds fired and no problems. I'd rather clean the bathroom than waste time and energy cleaning a Ruger .22

12. 

    Ford Member

    Joined:

    Sep 16, 2003

    Messages:

    512

    Location:

    KCMO

    I had one. They are nice shooting guns but a pain to strip and clean. I sold it because it was such a hassle to deal with. I now tend to stay away from any gun that in the instructions for assembly/disassembly it says to use a malet.

13. I take off the grips, soak it diesel fuel, spray every nook and cranny with auto store house brand brake parts cleaner (whatever is cheapest), then lube with spray Break-Free, wipe it down, and finally replace the grips.

    I did the factory take down once, too big a PITA. The above seems to work well, I do it when I start getting multiple feed failures per box, about once every 500-1500 rounds depending on what ammo I've been shooting.

    For ease of takedown for cleaning in a .22 pistol my wife's Beretta Neos rocks!

    --wally.

    Edit:
    I've a Mark I and Mark II, I don't think the Mark III re-assembles any easier. The take down is pretty easy, putting it back together is the PITA part!

14. I strip and clean mine every 200 rounds or so. I find the trigger starts to creep if I let it go much more than that. Just soak and swab, no brush and flush with plenty of brake cleaner.

    I am shooting tournaments with it so I like it to be clean. That way if I have a malfunction noone can make observations as to any lack of maintenance being the reason.

15. I suspect the people who have problems with the Ruger Mark series of .22LR pistols are not significantly mechanically inclined, and thus find the field strip/reassembly process a bit of a mystery.

    Once one understands EXACTLY what is going on during the reassembly process (where most novices get hung up), this pistol is no more challenging to reassemble that a M1911 pistol.

16. agreed,

    Once you understand that gravity plays a significant role in repostioning the hammer when the mainspring assembly is pulled and replaced. And you know where that hammer strut has to go for reassembly, it's really a piece of cake,,,

    a slice of pie,,,

    a walk in the park...

    

17. A pushover,

    like taking candy from a baby, cool breeze, easy street, no sweat, like falling off a log, a snap, etc.

    Just read the manual and do as it says.

    Best buy in a .22 target pistol there is. Loving mine since 1982.

18. I have owned many Ruger Mark II's over the years. I generally only do a detailed strip and clean after 500 to 1000 rounds. For interim cleaning, I swab out the barrel with Shooters Choice, pull the bolt back, and spray out the breechface and in the back of the bolt with CRC non-chlorinated Brakleen. This seems to do a real good job of flushing out the fouling and unburned powder. Since this also strips all the lube, I spray some Breakfree CLP in the back of the bolt, and lubricate the bolt bearing surfaces with some Tetra. This approach has worked like a charm for me.

19. My MkII is still a bit hard to strip/reassemble, but I have only had it apart twice. Probably after I get it apart/together several more times, it will loosen up a bit.

    Might look into getting one of those Majestic Arms kits, though...hmmmmm

21. 

    Beorning Member

    Joined:

    Dec 14, 2006

    Messages:

    3

    I just picked up a 22/45 tonight. Brand new, Mark III. It's my first handgun. I followed the disassembly and reassembly instructions in the manual. My first try took about 20 minutes. I did it again in ten. It does seem a bit fidgety, but certainly not something I would be inclined to complain about.

    Maybe I'm just lucky to not have experienced a weapon easier to take apart and clean before I got my hands on this one?

22. I've had my Mk III for awhile, love it. Stopped "malleting," spend more time with swabs. Malleting the action off always seems to whack out the red dot.

    If you get one, first thing: remove the front sight, degrease the hole and screw, LocTite it back in. Mine undid itself about five times.

    The gun is a sewing-machine needle!

23. The key is the little hammer strut, which must be hanging down just right. Once you master that, you can do it in less than a minute. (Anyone with a Ruger MK II or MK III who has a friend with one, should have a quite training session with that friend. It really is simple and easy, but its a bit like learning a magic handshake -- you think you haven't a clue until someone shows you.)

24. Walt Sherrill>"The key is the little hammer strut,"
    I think most people take them apart so seldom they forget that little item. Most people would probably have less problems if they would remember to RTFIs

25. 270 dollars or so new, 200 used (buy used...). Takedown is complicated compared to other some other pistols but by no means difficult once you understand the issues with the hammer strut and it's position and the difficulty of releasing the hammer with the trigger without a magazine in the pistol.

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How To Clean A Ruger 22 45 Mark Iii

Source: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads%2Fruger-mark-iii-is-cleaning-possible.125290%2F

Posted by: lovellcamen1941.blogspot.com

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